With which wine to accompany the chiles in nogada? That says a sommelier – El Financiero


Creamy, spicy, fruity: a chile en nogada brings together a whole mountain of flavors that range from the roasted flavor of a poblano pepper with the entrails of a meat stuffed with fruit, all snow covered with this Castile nut sauce and on top a handful of pomegranate, but?with which drink to accompany this world of possibilities that promises to throw a party in your mouth?

This traditional Puebla dish is characterized by its seasonality, prepared with ingredients found only from July to August, such as castile nuts, pomegranate, poblano pepper and pannochera apple; In the past, there was also acitrón, an ingredient currently prohibited.

It is so well served that it is even seasoned with a legend: it is said that it was cooked for the first time in 1821, as a dish served by the nuns of the convent of Santa Monica in honor of Augustin de Iturbidewho couldn’t resist this dish in the colors of the Trigarante Army flag.

However, anecdote aside, there are pre-date records of recipes for these peppers; according to historian Jeffrey M. Pilcher in his book Long live the tamales!in 1831, there were already recognizable versions of the dish: the filling consisted of mutton, eggs and capers, while the current recipe has fried pork with garlic, onion, tomato, parsley, cinnamon, cloves and candied fruit.

The difference was mainly in the nut saucebecause before it was an oil-based vinaigrette and today it incorporates cream.

With which wine to accompany the chiles in nogada?

Wine can be a good companion for this legendary cymbalin maintenance sommelier Gabriela Petriz tell us some pairing recommendations.

In principle, the La Redonda vineyard specialist points out that there are several ways to prepare the dishwho determines the wine with which it will be served: “Each father has his recipe with peppers in nogada, each one makes his recipe with his tastes.”

« Chilli in Nogada goes through the whole palette of flavorsPerhaps sweet for fruitpowerful for chilli and meat, creamy for the role of the nogada, he takes you on a whole dance which, according to taste, can choose the type of wine and bring it there,” he adds.

In this mode, the chosen wine will depend on the flavors that stand out in the recipe as well as the preferences of each palate. The sommelier tells us what happens with each option.

Rosé wine

A rosé wine can go well with fruit flavors of a chili en nogada that is found in the garnish and in the pomegranate, explains the sommelier.

“I love the pomegranate part, those flavors that they can even mimic the flavor of rosé wine”.

With a nogada pepper with a predominantly fruity flavor, a semi-dry roselight, without barrel, with fruity notes on the nose, such as apple, pear, the dish can very well be served with a little more pomegranate. It is also refreshing, as it is served at a temperature of 10 to 12 degrees.

The expert explains that rosés are very versatile, they are easy to drink, to serve, to associateis a good possibility at the table both for those who are regular wine drinkers and for new palates, “it’s a better wineit’s easier for you to make people like it than a red… it’s the most beautiful of the group”.

Red wine

Gabriela Petriz says that a dish where highlights the smoky flavor poblano pepper can be served with a red wine, “we can associate it because we have a chili with all the burnt flavor”.

In addition, a red wine accompanies the beef and pork stuffing; even for recipes that incorporate plantains.

The sommelier offers a Cabernet Sauvignonor one Tempranillo Red with cannon, nourished by notes of wood, spices, notes of ripe fruit, more herbaceous, like Altiplano wine, which can accompany the smoke and the power of the spicy flavors of the meat. The suggestion is that it be a chilled winebut at a not so low serving temperature, around 16 degrees.

White wine

A white wine with notes of apple, peach and nuts can go well with the fruits of the garnish and especially with the nogada sauce, explains Petriz, especially if it is a flaky chili, with flavors of butter. .

She recommends a Sauvignon Blancor one off-dry sparkling white, with grape varieties such as Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay, obtained by the Brut method; An example of this is the Orlandi.

This type of wine also requires a lower serving temperature, around five degrees.

“What comes to accomplish a sparkling wine is to purify your palaterefresh yourself and let yourself continue to eat the dish and not be so saturated,” he comments.

Petriz points out that a chile en nogada is a powerful dish, with multiple flavors, with each bite you find new ingredients.

The sparkling white advantage it’s that the bubbles mean that you don’t soak up all these flavors, it’s a wine that accompanies the whole dish: “from the herbaceous and smoky part of the pomegranate chili, which has a lot of power, harsh flavors and a fruity filling”.

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